ISSN: 2310-2799
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546,196 artículos
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Año:
2018
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Palmeira, Lara Virgínia Saraiva
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
This article tries to discuss how the category of “exotic” is approached in the field of fashion and anthropological writings. Initially, it was tried to approach questions related to the profession of model, the socio-historical construction of the overvaluation and corporal standardization and, later, to analyze how the exotic appeared in this context. The racial question comes from tied to the term in evidence through the examples of the younger’s African models present in the field. Thus, this concept helps us to reflect on important relations of power, present in this universe subscribed through language. The data are based on an ethnographic survey made on Fortaleza –CE during 2012 and 2013 at a modeling agency.
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Año:
2018
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Rochedo, Aline Lopes
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
Uma narrativa crítica sobre moda, economia, política, moral e estética que contempla produção e consumo, passado e presente, prazer e perigo. Assim é Fashion Victims: The Pleasures and Perils of Dress in the 19th Century (Vítimas da moda: os prazeres e perigos do vestuário no século XIX), exposição temporária instalada em junho de 2014 no Bata Shoe Museum (BSM), em Toronto, Canadá. Organizada por Elizabeth Semmelhack, curadora do museu, e Alison Matthews David, professora de História de Têxteis e Vestuário da The School of Fashion da Ryerson University, a mostra se encerraria em junho de 2016, mas foi estendida até abril de 2018. Graças à prorrogação, tive a oportunidade de vê-la em maio de 2017. [...]
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Año:
2018
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Perpétuo, Nayara Chaves Ferreira
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
The objective of this article is to demonstrate how it is possible to articulate theory and practice in the scope of fashion education, extrapolating educational institutions walls. For this, addresses the planning, execution and results of the Extension Project entitled Fashion Inside Out, which was idealised to present the results of the master’s degree research of a lecturer of the Federal Education system to the Zé Doca community (Maranhão). It culminates bringing out the social return of the school that encourages and disseminates the research, in addition to promote important reflections in the contemporaneity involving sustainable practices and questioning the role of agents involved in consumer relations – designers and consumers.
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Año:
2018
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Noronha, Julia Valle; Wilde, Danielle
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
The fashion industry is permeated by overconsumption. Mass production, low prices and speed of turnover of trends lead consumers to perceive clothes as disposable objects. The resulting throwaway culture adds to the already problematic environmental impact of the fashion industry. To shift this state of affairs, we propose wardrobe interventions, a method that uses experimental design practices to collect insights and promote more active engagements between wearers and worn by leveraging the notion of material agency. We describe two projects used to develop and verify the method, to demonstrate how foregrounding the agency of clothes can enhance values embedded in wearer-worn relationships, and potentially shift consumer actions.
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Año:
2018
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Marques, Márcia Siqueira Costa
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
Technology modifies processes and the internet revolutionizes all fields of society, especially fashion. We need to be able to understand how innovation happens in society to be able to predict and realize how changes will affect our lives. We are living today the great development of the use of artificial intelligence (AI). In this way, we must rethink the concept of cognition and the convergence between technology and fashion, not only in terms of usability but also in how devices interact with people and machines. Macro-trends can be understood and harnessed to cope with the technological, cultural and social changes that tend to be inevitable.
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Año:
2018
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Neder, Mônica
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
This article is a register of the color monitoring fulfilled during the fashion weeks in Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo from 2013 to 2016. The main purpose was the search for patterns of color repetition. Therefore, it was accomplished a bibliographical study about trends and fashion research, in addition to a field survey for collection of sample. Due to its high power of information dissemination, the chosen instrument was the digital environment, using the internet. To record the samples, we built color maps, which were subsequently analyzed by means of visual and written records. In order to understand the repetition of colorful patterns over the period covered by the study, there were built comparative graphs categorized by family, brightness and saturation.
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Año:
2018
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Publicação, Normas
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
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Año:
2018
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Pinent, Lívia Stroschoen
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
With a seven decades trajectory, Christian Dior is an essential part of the fashion field and helps to build the rhetoric of this system, as Barthes (1983) defines it. But respecting certain phenomena and dimensions, it acquires rhetoric of its own, or at least it is what it intends with some actions. It is about one of these cases that this essay is dedicated, the problematization of succession issues. The object is a documentary film entitled Dior and I (2015), about the first Raf Simons collection as creative director of Dior. Through semiotic understanding, the study aims to perceive the evidence of the construction of this brand rhetoric as a way of sustaining the succession of creators, in the midst of the historicalsocial context of Dior and fashion.
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Año:
2018
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Bueno, Maria Lucia
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
The modernization of women’s clothing, which took place within French haute couture in the first decades of the twentieth century, answer for the international and economic projection of the sector, as well as for the social and professional advancement of a group of women who was in the lead of this process. The purpose of this article is to address some aspects of this movement, with gender studies as one of the perspectives.
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Año:
2018
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Filippello, Roberto
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
This article proposes a critical reading of the photographic work of Hedi Slimane (Paris, FR, 968-) by teasing out the relation between his photographic (dis-) engagement with his subjects and the employment of an impersonal style of affect. I begin with an overview of the emergenceof the fashion creative director as a stardom figure at the turn of the 21st century, and I proceed with an inquiry into the auteurial iconography fabricated by Slimane in the last ten years. Tackling the intricate bond of style and masculinity against the backdrop of queer theoretical concerns,I offer an analysis of his main photographic anthologies from the last ten years. I conclude with a reflection on Slimane’s self-narratives in the context of the relationship between biography and historiography.
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