ISSN: 2310-2799
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546,196 artículos
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Año:
2018
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Breward, Christopher
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
O prólogo da autobiografia do grande costureiro Christian Dior, traduzida para o inglês por Antonia Fraser, em 1958, proporciona um insight revelador sobre a vida pessoal de um homem cujo nome, mais do que qualquer outro, tornou-se sinônimo da produção de uma influente forma de feminilidade luxuosa e elegante, que definiu o imaginário e a cultura da indústria da costura nos meados do século vinte. [...]
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Año:
2018
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Casals, Laura Luceño
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
The present text analyzes the paradoxes of fashion from the perspective of other fields of study related to Fashion, such as anthropology, sociology, semiology and history. Fashion is usually treated only as an industrial and commercial phenomenon, sometimes as a superficial manifestation of society, but it is a system of signs that responds to the deep needs of society. Fashion contains as many contradictions and paradoxes as the society and the contemporary human being: that’s probably where its success lies.
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Año:
2018
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Portinari, Denise Berruezo; Coutinho, Fernada Ribeiro; de Oliveira, Janara Morena da Silva
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
This paper discusses queer theory’s appropriation by the Fashion2 industry, as in the genderless fashion trend. Therefore, one question shows up: Is it possible to read the genderless fashion trend as just one more market action idealized by the industry with a view towards an expansion of marketing possibilities? In other words, is it another fad that will only further an ongoing process of gentrification (domestication) of queer experience and politics? At the same time, we must recognize that Fashion’s interpretation of queer assemblages – a reading that is manifested, for example, in the concept of genderless that we are analysing here – can bring interesting contributions to the critical work of deconstructing normativity that lies at the core of queer practices and queer theories.
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Año:
2018
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Bicalho, Poliene Soares dos Santos
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
Body painting, for most of the indigenous people who practice it in Brazil, symbolizes a second social and cultural skin, loaded with different effects and meanings, ranging from ethnicity to ethnicity. The purpose of this article is to identify and analyze the people and the bodily paintings of groups that take this act as a major expression of their arts, also understanding the practice as a very peculiar type of attire; and with emphasis on the indigenous people of the Cerrado. In this sense, it is understood that the art of dressing for the indigenous is something beyond beauty, but also seeks for it incessantly; is something far, far beyond the cover of shame, but it can also have that intention in occasional, ritual or even everyday situations, which varies from people to people, from culture to culture, from specific contact histories; is something beyond the cover of the cold or the cooling off in the heat of the long dry times of the Cerrado, and the heat certainly cast the indigenous habitus of being routinely more naked than dressed.
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Año:
2018
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Moreira, Fuviane Galdino
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
The clothes of the Christian sculptures are dear to textile studies. Qualified as ornaments by Bonne (1996), the tissues investigated here connect themselves to the traces of the concept of beauty inspired by the Greek antiques. This paper proposes an interpretation about the contact between the History of Sacred Art and the History of Dressing, from the analysis of the dressing modes of two patronesses from Latin America: Our Lady of Angels, from Costa Rica, and Our Lady Mother of Divine Providence, from Porto Rico. Both are objects of our doctoral research. The theory of this study is based on works from the Medieval History that continue reverberating in more recent periods.
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Año:
2018
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Adverse, Angélica Oliveira
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
This article problematizes the notion of the aesthetics of the disappearance coming from the performance The Death of James Lee Byars (1994). We will begin with the attempt of the figuration of the death of the artist James Lee Byars (1933-1997) to understand his attempt to achieve the perfection of gestures and forms. We want to examine the artist’s search for the essence of the absence-presence: a body that appears and a body that disappears.
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Año:
2018
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Tavares, Luísa Mendes
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
The article reflects on the different powers activated by the use of the clothes, from the memories that are agglutinating in the pieces, to the devices of forgetfulness present in costumes that provoke the mimesis with the landscape. The clothes are approached from personal experiences and theoretical readings, using a methodology that relates dissonant voices and does not hierarchize the sources of research. Through examples of fashion, art and literature, a narrative is developed that explores the user’s relationship with his or her costume.
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Año:
2018
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Devaney, Rebecca
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
This paper will describe the methodology of a research project undertaken to investigate the craft techniques, aesthetic styles and cultural significance of embroidered textiles in Mexico. It will outline the research proposal, preliminary research, the development of a framework for field research, the process of planning the itinerary, the criteria for purchasing the textiles, contextual research and the research journey. The dissemination of the research through public exhibition will be presented in conclusion.
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Año:
2018
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Vaccari, Alessandra
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
Le narrative dei fashion designer sono il focus di questo dossier, che si propone di riflettere su una delle figure più affascinanti e controverse della storia della moda di età contemporanea. Affascinanti perché, nella cultura occidentale e non solo, i fashion designer hanno incarnato l’idea di moda, divenendone per i consumatori il volto stesso (BREWARD, 2003). Sono figure controverse, o quanto meno problematiche, nel momento in cui – come in questo dossier – si cerca di affrontarle con gli strumenti dello storico e dello studioso della cultura. Il termine fashion designer è qui utilizzato in senso ampio per comprendere un insieme di professioni legate alla progettazione della moda che va dal couturier allo stilista, dal designer di moda indipendente al direttore creativo per i brand del lusso contemporanei. Al centro del discorso è il modo in cui i fashion designer si rappresentano attraverso i loro stessi testi, sotto forma di memorie, autobiografie, monografie, interviste e, in anni più recenti, documentari e social media. [...]
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Año:
2018
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Caratozzolo, Vittoria Caterina
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
This article considers Nanni Strada’s idiosyncratic vision of the dress and the way she elaborated it throughout her whole career as a fashion designer. It also delves into her narrative works where the “decentralization” of her biographic profile appears to be instrumental to the focalization of her sartorial language. In addition, this article examines the design projects included in her work Mappamodello (published in Italy in 2012) to gauge how they represent Strada’s plastic vocation “to bring together different worlds at the design phase”.
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