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546,196 artículos
Año:
2022
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Katzenberg, Jana
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
When considering the significance of the Tokyo district Harajuku for the fashion scene, the discrepancy between its limited dimensions of barely two square kilometers and its great national and international relevance in pop culture is striking. Throughout Harajuku’s development, a special role of the international emerges, shaping the identity of this neighborhood. At the same time, DIY practices have long played an important role, inspired by the area’s global connections. In recent years, this process has intersected with the development of fashion cultures online. My article develops a brief cultural history of Harajuku since the post-war period based on interviews with formative actors from its history, print and online media content and observations made on site.
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Año:
2022
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Maia, Alliny
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
This article examines the field of Fashion and Dress History in Brazil, highlighting its potential and limits in contrast to its possible approaches to decolonial thinking. It covers the challenges of investigating issues relating to subaltern populations in Brazil from a historical perspective due to a lack of specific documentation. Alternatives of methodological practices emerging from my Doctoral research (in progress) are presented in response to these obstacles. The proposed idea emphasizes the importance of extending the field knowledge and developing a theoretical approach to expand some notions and overcome some interpretation gaps.
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Año:
2022
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Salazar, Ana; Duarte, Cristina L.; Guerra, Paula; Figueredo, Henrique Grimaldi
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
Entrevistas realizadas utilizando a Plataforma Zoom, coordenadas entre Lisboa, Múrcia, Porto e Paris, em 28 de agosto de 2021 e 28 de janeiro de 2022, respetivamente. A primeira foi realizada a Ana Salazar e a segunda a Cristina L. Duarte. [...]
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Año:
2022
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Reis, Laura Junqueira de Mello
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
O livro aqui resenhado é fruto da dissertação em História, defendida em 2019, na Universidade de São Paulo (USP), por Guilherme Domingues Gonçales. O autor dedicou-se, ao longo de sua pesquisa, a compreender o uso de roupas socialmente masculinas, como gravatas, calças e paletós, pelas mulheres oitocentistas e do começo do século XX, principalmente no Rio de Janeiro e em São Paulo. [...]
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Año:
2022
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Mitre, Chico
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
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Año:
2022
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Santos Cruz, Etevaldo
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
This study consists of a conceptual investigation that aims to reflect on the tragic dimension of the style as a shaping power of expression resulting from intersubjective tensions. The analysis is centered on the comprehension established over the movement that permeates the attempt of unity and success that the formative capacity evokes as a transfiguration of the world in becoming. We resort to some notions from the Camusian philosophy and the formativity theory to demonstrate how the stylizing dimension of life corresponds to the requirement of a form that institutes, overcomes, and breaks with a perspective of life by indicating an aesthetic meaning of existence. Based on an aesthetic perspective, this study reaches authors such as Georg Simmel, Albert Camus, Luigi Pareyson, Maurice Merleau-Ponty, assisted by the considerations of Renata Pitombo Cidreira and Teixeira Coelho.
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Año:
2022
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Rodríguez Sanchez, Mercedes
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
This paper presents a study on the construction of femme fatale archetype in cinema through costume design, from the appearance of the vamp character in the silent film era, to the femmes fatal in the erotic thriller of the late 80s and 90s, throughout the women who starred in the classic film noir of the 40s. The author makes a selection of films not only based on the quality of the movie, but fundamentally on the importance of costume design for the construction of iconic characters and the repercussion that certain dresses had both on the tendencies of commercial fashion, as well as on the construction of the femme fatale archetype in the collective imaginary.
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Año:
2022
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Adverse, Angélica
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
In this article, I present an analysis of La SAPE (Société des Ambianceurs et Personnes Élégantes), taking the act of getting dressed as an action of resistance aimed at ensuring the aesthetic existence of African bodies. My aim is to investigate how the study of the fashion and art culture can be extended to address the symbolic issues arising from the European colonization in Africa, particularly regarding the spread of Dandism during the colonization process. The article analyzes, from the perspective of aesthetic and historical criticism, the complexity of the act of getting dressed to gain a better understanding offashion in the context of contemporary artistic practices and investigate how its constitution is permeated by political issues related to the culture of contemporary visibility, to the discourses of power and to the actions of resistance arising from the phenomenon of fashion.
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Año:
2022
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Ferreira Pires, Beatriz; Pitombo Cidreira, Renata
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
O presente dossiê discute as diversas possibilidades de constituições corporais na contemporaneidade, a partir da composição da aparência, através das práticas vestimentares, do entrelaçamento, cada vez mais intenso, da moda com as ciências da saúde, seja através de procedimentos pouco invasivos, seja através de complexas e arriscadas incursões cirúrgicas, do fenômeno em ascensão da substituição do corpo por sua imagem e da prática de fazeres digitais que subtraem do corpo seu gestual. [...]
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Año:
2022
ISSN:
2358-0003, 1982-0313
Borges Rufino, Carina; Bonadio, Maria Claudia
Associação Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda - Abepem
Resumen
Chegamos à terceira e última edição da dObra[s] de 2022. Em meio aos desafios vividos pela pesquisa acadêmica no Brasil, conseguimos, por mais um ano, fomentar a pesquisa em moda e abordá-la em conformidade com o espírito de um tempo que olha para questões urgentes, diversas e plurais, ao mesmo tempo em que luta contra discursos retrógrados e excludentes que insistem em se impor. [...]
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